The Century-Old, Iconic LA Haunt 'The Pantry' Shutters Its Doors: Because Unions are Greedy and Useless
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The decline of the once great city of Los Angeles continues apace as a 100-year-old restaurant has shuttered its doors for good. As former Vice President Kamala Harris said on the campaign trail: “You betta thank a union member!” 

        

Thanks to Unite Here! Local 11, the Original Pantry Cafe is no longer in business. So, yeah, Thank a union member. 

The beloved restaurant first opened in 1924 and was once owned by former L.A. Mayor Richard Riordan. The restaurant has been at Figueroa and 9th streets since 1950. Customers had been coming for decades for its old-school flair and breakfast dishes.

An Instagram story posted Sunday by the diner showed a huge line that wrapped around the block.

After Riordan’s death two years ago, ownership shifted to the Riordan Trust.

Longtime workers at the restaurant say the new owners decided to close the restaurant rather than try to meet the demands of the workers’ union. They held protests in hopes of saving their jobs.

This restaurant was started by Dewey Logan, the godfather of my husband, on a corner, in a kiosk, until it had to be broken-down to build the Harbor Freeway and this building was built. I wonder what they will do with the photograph of my husband’s Dad that is on the wall there.

If commerce, real estate, and small business are a reflection of the beating heart of a city, then Los Angeles is in heart failure. The closure of the Pantry is an indication that L.A. is in the final stages of the disease.

“We’re hoping we’re not going to have to say goodbye,” one customer shared with KTLA’s Angeli Kakade. “I think you really don’t, it stays in your heart forever.”

Even today, there are very few good eating places open 24 hours in L.A., and when I moved there in the late ’80s, there were even less. After a night of clubbing or crawling the city, you wanted a place where you could hang out some more with your crew, as well as get a quality meal. Because, let’s be honest: Denny’s is just gross. So, the Original Pantry Cafe was the place, and in my younger years in L.A. I frequented the joint and inhaled their pancakes and waffles on the regular: they were the best in the city. 

In 1981, former LA mayor Richard Riordan purchased the Original Pantry Cafe after a server told him that he was eating too slowly while reading a book. “I fell in love with right then,” Riordan told the Los Angeles Times in 2008. Riordan operated the Pantry Cafe for decades, opening Riordan’s Tavern next door and feeding generations of Angelenos. The Pantry Cafe was famous for its lack of door locks, and only closed a few times in its hallowed history: It remained open during the 1992 Los Angeles uprising but was forced to temporarily close during the early days of the COVID-19 pandemic. After pandemic restrictions lifted, the restaurant reopened with limited service from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. on weekdays and until 5 p.m. on weekends instead of its usual around-the-clock operation.

The Pantry is now no longer, thanks to the restaurant’s built-in workforce of proud union members. The leaders of Unite Here! Local 11 wanted a guarantee that their people would have jobs at the restaurant even when it changed ownership. Cue the cries of “Hear! Hear!” from those federal workers who think they should never be fired. Also union members.

Demonstrations took place this week to keep the pantry open – without success.

Facts: Unite Here! has been a thorn in the side of the Riordan Trust for quite some time, which no doubt factored into the Trust’s decision to close the restaurant. So, consider their protest one last gasp for relevancy.

When Riordan passed away in 2023, his family’s trust assumed ownership and planned to sell the restaurant to fund its philanthropic operations. Even after its closure yesterday, union workers protested in front of the restaurant past 6 p.m. Unite Here, which represents the workers, filed an on February 7 with allegations that the closure violates federal labor law. On February 25, the NLRB dismissed the charge due to “lack of cooperation from the Charging Party.” The union can still appeal the decision. Back in April 2023, a few weeks before Riordan died, a class-action lawsuit alleging unpaid overtime, rest, and meal breaks was filed on behalf of workers; the case remained in settlement talks as of February 2025.

Though the Richard J. Riordan trust is attempting to sell the business, the union still wants to ensure that new owners will honor the existing labor contract. “It’s still open from their perspective,” told the Times.

The union told KTLA that as of Sunday, the trust wouldn’t say if they had a buyer lined up or not, but representatives said the fight isn’t over.

There you have it. Former mayor Richard Riordan loved Los Angeles, and his ownership of the Original Pantry Cafe was a reflection of this. It’s a shame that a restaurant that represented the fabric of a community and a piece of Los Angeles history has now become history.

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