In a historic moment at the Vatican, Pope Leo XIV conducted his inaugural Midnight Mass within the majestic walls of St. Peter’s Basilica. During his homily, the Pope reflected on the profound “wisdom” encapsulated in the Christmas narrative, emphasizing the significance of the infant Jesus, born to redeem humanity.

Meanwhile, in Bethlehem, a city revered by Christians as the birthplace of Jesus, the usual Christmas festivities had been put on hold due to ongoing conflict. However, on Wednesday, the spirit of the season was rekindled as a towering Christmas tree was erected in Manger Square. This symbol of hope temporarily replaced the wartime depiction of baby Jesus amid rubble and barbed wire, a poignant tribute to the hardships faced by those in Gaza.

This year’s celebrations were ushered in by Cardinal Pierbattista Pizzaballa, the foremost Catholic authority in the Holy Land. Leading the traditional procession from Jerusalem to Bethlehem, he urged for “a Christmas full of light.”

Having recently visited Gaza to conduct a pre-Christmas Mass, Pizzaballa shared heartfelt greetings from the region’s small Christian community. Despite the widespread destruction, he witnessed a resilient spirit and a yearning to rebuild.

Addressing a gathering of thousands, comprising both Christians and Muslims, he declared, “We, all together, decide to be the light, and the light of Bethlehem is the light of the world.” His words resonated as a call for unity and hope amidst adversity.

Despite the holiday cheer, the impact of the war in the Israeli-occupied West Bank is acute, especially in Bethlehem, where around 80 per cent of the Muslim-majority city’s residents depend upon tourism-related businesses, according to the local government.

There were only a handful of foreigners but some residents said they are starting to see signs of change as tourism slowly returns.

‘Hope in very dark situations’

“Today is a day of joy, a day of hope, the beginning of the return of normal life here,” said Bethlehem resident Georgette Jackaman, a tour guide. She and her husband, Michael Jackaman, another guide, are from Christian Bethlehem families that stretch back generations.

This is the first real Christmas celebration for their two children, aged 2 and a half and 10 months.

During the war, the Jackamans pivoted to create a website selling Palestinian handicrafts to support others who lost their livelihoods. The unemployment rate in the city jumped from 14 per cent to 65 per cent, Bethlehem Mayor Maher Nicola Canawati said earlier this month.

A visitor from France, Mona Riewer, said being in Bethlehem helped her appreciate the meaning of the holiday.

“Christmas is like hope in very dark situations,” she said.

Despite the Gaza ceasefire that began in October, tensions remain high in the West Bank, with Israeli military raids in what it describes as a crackdown on militants. Attacks by Israeli settlers against Palestinians have reached their highest level since the United Nations humanitarian office started collecting data in 2006.

Israel captured the West Bank in the 1967 Mideast war. The internationally recognized Palestinian Authority has limited autonomy in parts of the territory, including Bethlehem.

As poverty and unemployment have soared, about 4000 people have left Bethlehem in search of work, the mayor said — part of a worrying trend for Christians, who are leaving the region in droves. Christians account for less than two per cent of the West Bank’s roughly 3 million residents.

The beginning of a return to normal life

Fadi Zoughbi, who previously worked overseeing logistics for tour groups, said his children were ecstatic to see marching bands streaming through Bethlehem’s streets, Palestinian flags and tartan draped on their bagpipes. For the past two years, the scouts marched silently as a protest against the war.

Irene Kirmiz, who grew up in Bethlehem and lives in Ramallah, said the scout parade is among her favorite Christmas traditions. Her 15-year-old daughter plays the tenor drum with the Ramallah scouts.

But her family had to wake up at 5am to arrive for the parade, after waiting about three hours at Israeli checkpoints. The drive previously took 40 minutes without the checkpoints that have increasingly made travel difficult for Palestinians, she said.

In the past two years, the heads of churches in Jerusalem urged congregations to forgo “any unnecessarily festive activities.” They encouraged priests and the faithful to focus on Christmas’ spiritual meaning and called for “fervent prayers for a just and lasting peace for our beloved Holy Land.”

Other Middle East events mark the faithful’s resilience

Santas were everywhere as the traditional parade returned to Nazareth in northern Israel, revered by Christians as the place where the archangel Gabriel announced to Mary she would give birth to Jesus.

The hilltop town filled with children. Some starred in live Nativity scenes, and others lined the route waiting for floats and candy under a bright, warm sun.

Incense wafted over pews packed for Christmas Eve Mass at Gaza’s only Catholic church, where festive children’s programs had also taken place. The Holy Family compound was hit by fragments from an Israeli shell in July, killing three people. Israel called it an accident and expressed regret.

On the outskirts of Damascus, Syria, hundreds of congregants planned to return for Christmas Masses at a Greek Orthodox church where, in June, 25 people were killed in a suicide attack blamed on Islamic State militants. On Tuesday, they gathered to light a neon image of a Christmas tree in its courtyard.

Festivities around the world

At St. Peter’s, an estimated 6000 people worshipped inside the vast basilica decorated with poinsettias, while another 5000 watched the Mass on giant screens in the rain-soaked piazza outside.

The celebration, with readings and the homily in a variety of languages, including Latin, started with children from different continents putting flowers by the figure of the baby Jesus.

Leo will return to the basilica for Mass on Christmas Day followed by his traditional blessing from the loggia.

People around the world enjoyed Christmas traditions on Wednesday beyond houses of worship, too, from ice-skating in New York City to charity swimming in cold sea waters off Northern Ireland.

Along Florida’s Space Coast, Santas hopped on surfboards, not sleighs. Hundreds of surfers dressed as Santa took to the waves off Cocoa Beach in what has become an annual tradition for the past 17 years.

The Santa-surfing brought to the beach thousands of spectators dressed in Christmas costumes who danced to live music and took part in a holiday costume contest.

The event raises money for the Florida Surf Museum and a nonprofit that helps people with cancer.