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As a wine critic, my work involves tasting an astonishing number of wines—over 4,000 just this year alone. Some might envy my role, while others might simply be amazed at the sheer variety. Despite the toll it might take on my dentist’s bill, my liver seems to be holding up just fine.
In my tasting process, I typically assess the price only after I’ve formed an opinion on the wine’s quality. This method allows me to judge its true value without bias. Wines that surprise me with their quality relative to their cost often find a place on my recommended lists.
A common misconception that I enjoy dispelling is the notion that inexpensive white wines are inferior to their red counterparts. In my experience, it’s often the opposite. There are many exceptional white wines available that offer remarkable quality for their price. This is particularly good news for those preparing for the holiday season, as supermarkets are currently stocked with delightful white wines under £10 that are perfect for festive gatherings.
One myth I love to debunk is that cheaper white wines are worse than cheaper reds. I find the opposite is true and there are some real white gems out there that punch way above their price tag. Happily for those stocking up before Christmas festivities, some fantastic crowd-pleasing whites are on our supermarket shelves for under £10.
It’s sadly true that wine is getting more expensive due to rising duty, shipping costs, glass shortages, exchange rates and paperwork. Most people have no idea 70 per cent of the cost of a bottle of 14.5 per cent ABV wine now goes on tax (the duty and the VAT).
For a £6 bottle, that’s £4.20 spent before you’ve even looked at the liquid. Which leaves a slightly sad £1.80 to cover the wine, plus the bottle, label, closure and shipping.
You pay less tax – about 57 per cent – on a bottle at 11 per cent ABV, so many producers will force down the percentage to make a more affordable option. However, sugar will often be added to make up for the thinner body, with a dash of lab-made acidity chucked in.
‘When tasting, I try to look at the price last, so I can guess what I think it’s worth,’ writes wine critic Helena Nicklin. ‘Those that surprise me end up on my recommendations lists.’
This means many cheaper wines are horribly processed potions – what I call Franken-wines. And from February, you can add another 2 per cent rise to all this tax thanks to the recent Budget.
When you buy a £5 bottle, almost all of it is tax. But after that, any increase goes straight into the juice inside, which is why there’s such a leap in quality between £5 and £10.
These ten whites – all under £10 – are stonkingly good.
PORTUGUESE PUNCH
Azul Marinho Alvarinho 2024, £7.47 on offer (usually £8.42), Asda
Portuguese Alvarinho is such a vibrant grape, making whites packed with zingy citrus and ripe peach with a sprinkle of sea salt. This one is immensely gluggable. If you like a zesty Sauvignon or Picpoul, you’ll love this.
CREAMY RHONE
Les Dauphins Cotes du Rhone White, £9.50, Ocado
I’ve got back into textural whites this year and this blend combines a creamy mouth-feel with refreshing notes of lime and orange blossom over fennel and ripe apricot.
A PINOT UPGRADE
Tesco Finest Soave Superiore Classico 2023, £8.50, Tesco
Italian Soave is so underrated and this one is incredibly well-priced. Crisp and classy, this is savoury with notes of salted almonds and apple. If you want an upgrade from Pinot Grigio, this is for you.
ALDI MUST-BUY
Unearthed Austrian Gemischter Satz, £6.99, Aldi
When Aldi goes off-piste, chances are they’ve found something special. This Austrian field blend is fun and a bit different. Think juicy nectarine and herbs with a peppery kick.
SAUVIGNON AT A SNIP
Yealands Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand, £9.97, Asda
Yealands sets the benchmark for all kinds of premium New Zealand Sauvignon, from regional blends to single vineyard sippers. This is my go-to for a classic, Marlborough profile.
SUBTLE FIZZ
Specially Selected Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie, £7.69, Aldi, in-store only
Muscadet is back! Earthy and melon-scented with a prickle of carbon dioxide fizz, this wine elegantly proves that white can still be affordable, delicious and complex.
CROWD-PLEASER
Languedoc White Wine, Taste the Difference, £9.25, Sainsbury’s
This richly textured white blend is a fantastic crowd pleaser and great food wine. Think white flowers and baked apple with white chocolate, liquorice and salty minerals.
SUNSHINE IN A GLASS
Luis Felipe Edwards Reserva Viognier, £9.50, Waitrose
I love Viognier, with its sunshine-in-a-glass notes of ripe peach, apricot and orange blossom. It’s hard to get right but this one’s fabulous and affordable.
DON’T SKIP RIESLING!
Alsace Riesling Camille Meyer, £8.99, Lidl, in-store only
Riesling is a real wine lover’s grape but others are still nervous of it thanks to 1970s favourite Blue Nun. This one’s thirst-slaking, lime-scented and floral. A wonderful way to discover a noble grape.
CLASSY CHARDONNAY
Wild Ferment Chardonnay, Gable Lodge, £8.50, M&S and Ocado
I love a powerhouse Chardonnay with a hint of vanilla spiced oak, as long as it’s fresh and not too saccharine. This South African version is the bomb.
Follow Helena on Instagram @helenasips and online at helenasips.com