All Aboard the Revived Mardi Gras Express: Exclusive Insights from a Train Expert

In 2005, Hurricane Katrina wreaked havoc on the Gulf of Mexico’s American coastline, obliterating bridges and railway segments between New Orleans, Louisiana—a vibrant hub of jazz—and Mobile, Alabama, known for its colonial charm.

Fast forward two decades, and the 145-mile railway line, offering a scenic 3-hour and 43-minute journey through the Deep South’s coastal marshlands, is back in operation. The service, with fares starting at just £18 one-way, has quickly gained popularity, providing travelers with two affordable daily trips.

Due to its overwhelming success, additional carriages are being added on select weekends. This revival is seen as a symbol of recovery and renewal following the devastation of Katrina.

Known as the ‘Mardi Gras Service’ and run by Amtrak, the U.S. national rail service, its presence is announced by the blaring of train horns. Boarding takes place in the picturesque city of Mobile, the birthplace of the Mardi Gras celebrations.

These train horns have been a constant in the morning air, much like they were the previous night when the lively echoes accompanied our oyster tasting along Mobile’s bustling Dauphin Street, surrounded by its historic antebellum architecture.

We ascend the steps to the train by the lazily flowing River Mobile, where two huge red, white and blue locomotives are attached to three gleaming stainless-steel carriages: Two ‘coach’ class (standard) carriages and one business class.

A dining area serves hot dogs, breakfast burritos, Michelob beers and Hurricane cocktails (a punchy, red, fruity New Orleans concoction featuring rum).

You’re soon rolling out of Mobile – at 6.05am – with the sunrise casting golden light across pine trees along the river.

Train expert Tom Chesshyre jumped on board the Amtrak Alabama-New Orleans railway

The train has two ‘coach’ class (standard) carriages available for passengers

The views during the journey are especially picturesque, Tom says

We’re in business for this ride, heading for the city of Biloxi in Mississippi, the first of two planned stops to New Orleans.

The journey is 1h 18m. It’s a relaxing way to travel, drinking coffee, the horn blasting regularly. James, the bow tie-wearing conductor, tells us: ‘I worked all over [on Amtrak]… Chicago, Michigan, Milwaukee – but this is just beautiful.’

He’s referring in particular to the final stretch along the Gulf of Mexico (or ‘Gulf of America’ as President Donald Trump calls it) into New Orleans. 

But first there’s an enjoyable day exploring Biloxi, with its bustling casinos and Ground Zero Blues Club, co-owned by actor Morgan Freeman.

Biloxi was hit hard by Katrina, with 6,000-plus buildings destroyed and at least 53 lives lost. The city ‘looked like a bomb had hit it’, said one shellshocked resident.

Yet restoration since then has been staggering. You would hardly guess it had been virtually wiped out two decades ago.

We spin onwards, travelling in coach class this time. The train rattles forth before stopping 54 minutes later at a sleepy neighbourhood of single-storey houses with rocking chairs on porches leading to a cluster of live-music seafront bars.

Bay St Louis enjoys pretty beaches, a laid-back atmosphere as well as the 100 Men Hall, a former black community hall and music venue, where performers have included James Brown and Ray Charles. 

Tom’s journey kicks off in Mobile, the original home of the Mardi Gras celebrations

The seats are comfortable and relaxing – and Tom travels in style 

Live music is still occasionally played, and it’s a good enough reason to stop in the city – the shrimp tacos at the Blind Tiger bar by the marina in close second.

The final ride into New Orleans is captivating – you soon find yourself traversing swampland with flickering seabirds, and golden reeds. It is, quite simply, wonderful.

Once you cross the swamp, you enter New Orleans and watch a metropolis arise – truck depots, concrete plants, cheap-looking motels, highway flyovers, storm surge barriers and levees. 

But then you are in the home of Mardi Gras. The thrills and spills of the French Quarter await: Hurricane cocktails aplenty… thankfully, no hurricanes for real.

Tom Chesshyre is the author of Slow Trains Around Britain.