PARIS — Hundreds of thousands of people filled Paris’ famed Champs-Élysées on Saturday for Pope Leo XIV’s large open-air Mass, demonstrating the Catholic Church’s continued ability to draw vast crowds in a country that was once deeply Catholic but is now officially secular.
Riding through the cheering, flag-waving crowd in his popemobile, the American pontiff traveled about 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) along the grand avenue toward Place de la Concorde, one of the most recognizable and symbolically important sites in the French capital.
The Vatican put attendance at roughly 700,000, surpassing the 600,000 people who had registered beforehand. The extraordinary turnout highlighted the church’s enduring presence in France, even as regular worship has declined sharply and secularization has emptied churches across much of Europe.
During his homily, Leo urged believers not to hide their faith. “Let it overflow, so that those you meet may be refreshed and their thirst satisfied,” he said.
“From this beautiful city of Paris, I pray fervently that the living water of the Holy Spirit may flow throughout France,” the pope added.
Central Paris was closed to vehicles under an extensive security operation, but the gathering took on the feel of a citywide celebration. People of different religions, as well as those with no religious affiliation, joined Catholics in the crowd. The event brought together several generations, with parents carrying babies and young children forward so Leo could gently touch their heads as he passed.
Leontine Joseph, 42, a committed Catholic, attended with two friends of Moroccan heritage who were raised in Muslim culture. “The message of Pope Leo goes well beyond Catholic people; he speaks about social justice, for example,” she said.
An appeal to persevere against the trends
Throughout his four-day visit, Leo has encouraged French Catholics to remain steadfast “even amid the thorns” of an increasingly secular society. His trip began Friday with a visit and prayer at the rebuilt Notre Dame, the first papal appearance at the cathedral since its devastating 2019 fire. After leaving Paris, he is scheduled to pray at the Catholic shrine in Lourdes.
Earlier Saturday, at the Catholic Institute of Paris, the pope said he had been struck by the growing number of adult converts recorded in recent years. He expressed gratitude for what he called God’s “unfathomable work,” which he said defied purely statistical and sociological explanations.
“We must recognize, welcome and protect the small flame that the Holy Spirit has kindled in the darkness of the night, the tiny seed that strives to grow even amid the thorns,” Leo said.
Adult baptisms in France have tripled since 2016, reaching 13,000 this year. Still, religious experts and broader figures warn that the increase—also seen in secular Spain—has not reversed the church’s overall decline.
France recorded 513,000 baptisms in 1980. By 2024, that annual figure had fallen to 186,000.
Huge crowds come out to see the pope
The immense crowds and celebratory mood in central Paris evoked some of the country’s biggest shared public moments in recent history, including the celebrations that swept the Champs-Élysées after France won the soccer World Cup in 1998 and 2018.
Many attendees were not Catholic, but said they came to listen to the pope and reflect on his message.
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“People are seeing a lot of really terrible images. This kind of event reminds people of what is really important in life,” said Thierry Chen, a 40-year-old Paris entrepreneur who is not Catholic. “You see a lot of different people here, so it’s not just about one race, religion or nation, but about a common belief in humankind.”
Sylvane Le Goff, 68, traveled from the Paris region with her grandchildren, aged 10 and 12, hoping to give them “unforgettable memories.” Raised Catholic but no longer a practicing believer, she said she wanted the experience to broaden the children’s outlook.
The pope appeared moved by the size and energy of the crowds, particularly during Friday night’s vigil, which kept the 71-year-old pontiff out until almost 11 p.m. after an already demanding first day.
Around 80,000 young people gathered at the national stadium north of Paris for an evening featuring fireworks and a theatrical presentation of French Catholic history.
Speaking spontaneously in French, Leo told the audience: “Thank you for your courage! Thank you for your presence. Thank you for your faith. You are the saints of France!” His words drew loud cheers from the crowd.
The Mass adds a new chapter for historic Paris square
A monumental stage topped by a golden cross transformed Place de la Concorde for the service. Beneath the pope’s gaze, lines of choir members, clergy and worshippers gathered in prayer, adding a religious chapter to the long and often turbulent history of the iconic Paris square.
Designed at the end of the 18th century, it was an execution site during the French Revolution. Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette were guillotined there. For many in France, the square embodies the Republic. It traditionally stages Bastille Day celebrations. In 2024, the Paris Olympics gave it a blast of modernity, using it for break dance, skateboard, BMX and 3X3 basketball events.
Organizers of the Mass said the square was the only area in central Paris that could accommodate such large crowds.
But the choice was criticized by staunch supporters of France’s strict form of secularism in public life based on a 1905 law separating church and state. They argued that the site represents the Republic, and that other places such as the Invalides, a complex of buildings where Pope Benedict XVI celebrated Mass in front of 240,000 people in 2008, would have been more appropriate.
Leo’s visit to Paris came as a birthday present for Jean-Claude Farnabe, who turned 63 on Saturday and spent the morning securing a spot amid the throngs.
A lifelong Catholic, Farnabe attends Mass in the Paris suburb of Suresnes every Sunday, and has recently witnessed a surge in faith.
“There are more and more converts,” he said. “Many youngsters are interested in faith and in God. Every Sunday, I see new people, people aged between 25 and 40, who are getting baptized.”
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